Microplastics are everywhere and pose an increasing risk to human health and the environment. The apparel sector is one of the biggest producers of microplastics. Textile fibers, which decompose into minute particles, contaminate our surroundings and harm a variety of living things. What can businesses in the sports and outdoor sectors do to manufacture their goods in a manner that produces fewer microfibers, and which fibers are especially problematic?
Nowadays, microplastics are present everywhere.
A researcher at a consortium said during a presentation at a recent event that researchers discover microplastics wherever they check. The non-profit is looking at ways that the apparel sector may contribute to the reduction of microplastics, working with a university and receiving funding from an industry group.
Microplastics in the apparel sector are defined as tiny plastic particles with a diameter of less than five millimeters. Even though our rivers, lakes, and seas are the places where we are most acquainted with microplastics, the bulk of them originate on land and end up in the water. However, microplastics may also be discovered in human organs and tissues, water, air, land, marine species, and samples of ice from the Arctic and Antarctic. It doesn’t belong anywhere else since the particles harm individual species and jeopardize whole ecosystems by making their way into the food chain of humans and other animals via the water and the creatures that live in it.
The bulk of microplastics are caused by the textile sector
Microplastics originate from a wide range of sources, including fishing nets, tires, the breakdown of plastic debris, and cleaning and cosmetic items. Nonetheless, studies have shown that clothing is the primary source of microplastics. Textile fiber fragments make up the bulk of these particles. Research showed that fiber abrasion from synthetic fabrics is the real source of 35 percent of microplastics found in the ocean. These microfibers are produced not just in the washing machine but also in the spinning, weaving, dyeing, and washing processes—basically, at every phase of the textile manufacturing process. Because reducing microplastic in clothes also entails sacrificing product quality, interest is growing in how textiles and yarns will need to be made in the future. A commitment was introduced with participating businesses from the sports, outdoor, and fashion industries to accomplish this. By 2030, all signatories pledge to work together globally to completely eliminate the negative effects of textile fiber fragmentation on the environment.
Reasons why fibers break apart
A consistent measuring approach has previously been used to test for fiber loss in 827 textiles from 241 fabric producers. The first findings are becoming apparent. For instance, it is known that filament yarns and highly twisted yarns release fewer fibers than staple and loosely twisted yarns, respectively. It is also known that fiber loss rises significantly with increased process repetition frequency and that fiber loss is higher on brushed or roughened fabric surfaces. Additionally, research has discovered that identical textiles created from virgin polyester are not any more prone to fiber fragmentation than fabrics made from recycled polyester. In theory, a wide range of variables, such as yarn twist, mechanical strength of the fiber, fabric structure, chemical finishing, and fiber length, affect how fiber fragments. Solutions are needed for this, but certain textiles or fibers should not be outlawed altogether in the future. Manufacturing staple fibers cannot be stopped, and giving up on all natural fibers is not feasible if filament yarns have less fiber loss than staple fibers. Naturally, that is illogical.
There is no fundamental difference between man-made and natural fibers
Another significant result to highlight is this: There is no intrinsic superiority of natural fibers over synthetic fibers. The general consensus for a very long time was that natural fibers do not contaminate the environment as much as man-made fibers derived from petroleum since they are naturally occurring. It was believed that natural fibers, such as cotton or wool, are less resilient and persistent in the environment because they biodegrade more rapidly than synthetic fibers. However, it’s not that easy. Organic fibers also find their way into the environment and stay there for a very long period. This is because natural fibers go through a variety of chemical processes that make sure they don’t deteriorate either. Therefore, when it comes to microplastics in clothes, it makes little sense to distinguish between the two kinds of fibers. Degradation may also be avoided by using different finishes and plant-based dyes for natural materials. According to studies, naturally colored cotton, for instance, has much more vegetable wax than standard cotton, which slows down the process of deterioration.
Fiber fragmentation and biodegradability
For many reasons, depending only on biodegradable materials is not (yet) a solution to the issue, despite the fact that the biodegradable synthetic fiber market is expanding. First of all, the appropriate circumstances for the particular kind of substance in question determine biodegradability. This implies that not every fiber that has been approved for biodegradation does so in the same way. For instance, the requirements for composting in a home and an industrial setting vary significantly. Granted, no one would consider composting their T-shirt in their backyard, but in the end, this is precisely what occurs in all nations without a functional waste management system. However, biodegradability doesn’t specify which compounds are produced throughout the degradation process or what impact they have in different water and land habitats. The issues of biodegradability and fiber fragmentation are both complicated in and of themselves, and overlaying them to create solutions without regret requires further work to ensure that major sustainability issues are not created.
New coatings and fabric structures
Therefore, finding methods to strengthen fibers and textiles and reduce the amount of pieces they discharge is equally crucial. Initial designs for this have already been provided by the industry. In 2023, for instance, a fleece innovator and fabric producer unveiled a new fleece technology. The method minimizes the amount of fiber fragments shed in washing at home by 85% on average. It involves knitting, chemistry, and yarn manufacture. A particular fleece fabric is the first to use this revolutionary technology. To lessen the spread of microplastics in clothes, the producer has also created new procedures at its plants. These consist of equipping every surface finishing equipment with a vacuum and filter system and reusing all gathered fabric waste in other goods via upcycling. A company first unveiled an earlier innovation in 2018, with the goal of trapping fibers in air pockets—that is, in the spaces between two layers of cloth.
A textile producer is developing a chemical technique to lessen fiber fragmentation. They showcased a new innovation initiative at an event in November 2023. It was created to reduce microfiber loss and increase the fabric’s resilience to washing. A layer of polymers is formed around the fiber bundles to prevent pieces from breaking off, fracturing, and detaching from the fabric structure. The procedure may cut microfiber loss by as much as 70%. The technology received an award for being the best product in the “Performing Finishes” category. The innovation is still undergoing testing.
Additionally, makers of washing machines have released new innovations. A major collaboration in 2023 led to the creation of an external filter that lowers the amount of microfiber emissions released into wastewater. Retrofitting is possible with the separate purchase of the filter.
Fiber-friendly laundry techniques and business education
Additionally, customers may guarantee that fewer fiber pieces are lost from their goods. Washing machines with low water consumption are preferable to those with high water consumption, liquid detergents are preferable to washing powder, and washing machines with full loads break fiber less often than ones with half-full loads. As long as the fibers are disposed of properly and the filters are cleaned on a regular basis, special microfiber filters are also helpful. However, it is still too early to make certain declarations at this time.
In the end, the study of microfibers and how they affect the environment is still in its early phases. Even efforts that introduced commitments in 2021 didn’t start developing an understanding of the causes until 2024. Furthermore, there is currently no widely accepted, consistent method for determining fiber fragmentation, which makes comparing study findings challenging. The good news is that more and more businesses are attempting to address the issue of microplastics in clothes as it has been identified. Industry results are already being disseminated via webinars and training programs.