The American Apparel & Footwear Association, along with several U.S. industry organizations, non-profits, and labor unions, has urged Secretary of Labor Chaves-DeRemer to reevaluate the decision to cancel a crucial initiative by the Bureau of International Labor Affairs (ILAB) that focuses on improving labor conditions in Uzbekistan’s cotton industry. This coalition includes notable entities such as the U.S. Fashion Industry Association (USFIA), Responsible Sourcing Network, Anti-Slavery International, Uzbek Forum for Human Rights, Child Labor Coalition, and the National Consumers League.
In a letter addressed to Secretary Chaves-DeRemer, these organizations expressed serious concern over the discontinuation of the ILAB project titled “Enhancing Transparency and Accountability of Uzbekistan’s Cotton Industry.” The coalition emphasized the urgent call to reinstate ILAB’s Uzbekistan cotton initiative, highlighting its importance for promoting ethical labor practices.
These groups are part of the Cotton Campaign, a coalition that brings together business interests and labor representatives to combat forced labor and other exploitative practices in the cotton sectors of Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. The coalition stated that the ILAB initiative focused on Uzbek cotton aligns with the Cotton Campaign’s goals by promoting skill development and advocating for compliance with standards that protect the fundamental rights of farmers and workers within Uzbekistan’s cotton industry—key elements necessary for establishing fair and sustainable supply chains.
This initiative prioritizes American interests by protecting U.S. workers and businesses, ensuring fair competition against Uzbek cotton produced under poor and unacceptable conditions, and thwarting the exploitation of labor by textile and apparel companies that might otherwise take advantage of these situations, the group noted. Furthermore, they argue that the initiative supports the status of American workers by fostering a competitive landscape with similar rights and protections.
The coalition warned: “Discontinuing this project, however, undermines American interests, allowing Uzbek cotton to undercut U.S. cotton and American farmers, compelling U.S. workers to compete against forced labor and unethical labor practices, and enabling unscrupulous textile and apparel companies to gain from unfair trade practices, giving them a significant competitive edge over U.S. businesses for one of the most widely used materials in clothing. For these reasons, we urge you to immediately reinstate ILAB’s Uzbek cotton project.” The call to reinstate ILAB’s Uzbekistan cotton initiative is a critical plea for support from the industry and advocacy groups alike.
Launched in August 2022, the project aims to enhance labor conditions and prevent forced labor in Uzbekistan’s cotton industry. The initiative is designed to empower workers to advocate for their rights in the workplace. Additionally, it will support local cotton businesses in meeting international labor standards and adhering to sound corporate governance practices.
Uzbekistan is a major player in cotton production, yielding over one million tonnes annually, making it one of the largest producers worldwide. The project is scheduled to continue until December 2026.
