The demand for hemp clothing and hemp manufacturing are growing. Between 2022 and 2030, the hemp fiber industry is projected to increase from $5.76 billion to $23.57 billion globally. Although the market for hemp fiber is still relatively tiny in comparison to virgin cotton, it is a perfect sustainable fiber to combine with cotton. This is a result of hemp’s strength and versatility. Hemp has a lot of promise since cotton is used in up to 60% of womenswear and 75% of menswear clothing goods.
Description of the product
The stems of cannabis plants with very low concentrations of the psychotropic compound tetrahydrocannabinol, or THC, are used to make hemp, also known as industrial hemp. Hemp fibers are made shorter, softer, and compatible with contemporary textile technology by a process known as “cottonization.” To create textiles, it is then combined with staple fibers including cotton, silk, Tencel, wool, and polyester.
Cottonizing hemp may be done chemically or manually. The fabric produced from mechanically cottonized hemp is coarser than that of chemically processed hemp. Better processing methods are, nonetheless, producing ever-finer and softer mechanically cottonized hemp fibers. The characteristics of mechanically cottonized hemp resemble those of linen. Its rough texture becomes softer with repeated washings. It easily wrinkles.
The preservation of many of hemp’s inherent qualities is one advantage of mechanical processing. One of the toughest and longest-lasting natural textile fibers is the end product. Along with being lightweight, breathable, and biodegradable, this fiber also boasts antibacterial, moisture-wicking, thermoregulating, and hypoallergenic properties. While it is eight times tougher and resistant to UV rays than linen, it nevertheless has many of the same advantageous qualities.
The hemp’s sustainable qualities
One of the world’s most sustainable textile fibers is hemp fiber that is mechanically cottonized and cultivated without the use of irrigation or pesticides. Compared to many of the fibers it is often mixed with, such as cotton, silk, Tencel, wool and polyester, it is more environmentally friendly.
One of the plants that grows the quickest on the planet is hemp. Under the right circumstances, it doesn’t need to be watered and can withstand pests. Compared to traditional cotton, which accounts for 4.7% of worldwide pesticide sales, 10% of global insecticide sales and 3% of global water use, it uses significantly less water and pesticides. Ninety percent less water is needed to cultivate hemp than traditional cotton.
Another “regenerative” fiber is hemp. Its extensive root systems contribute to improving soil quality, which in turn aids in removing carbon dioxide from the environment. Hemp is mostly a carbon-negative substance, however the worldwide use of cotton generates around 220 million tons of carbon dioxide annually. It takes in more carbon dioxide from the environment than it emits, according to this. By giving birds a place to live, food for animals, and pollen, hemp farming also enhances biodiversity.
Overview of global manufacturing
Using hemp for textiles dates back to the fifth millennium BC. Up to the middle of the 19th century, the fiber was one of the most often used textile fibers. Approximately 75% of textiles produced worldwide in 1850 were made of hemp. Throughout the 20th century, hemp’s usage as a textile decreased as cotton and synthetic fibers gained in favor. Because of its link to cannabis, cultivating hemp was prohibited in many nations.
After 1965, the amount of hemp fiber produced worldwide decreased, from 450,000 tonnes to 100,000 tonnes in the 1990s. At this point, only specialized hemp clothing businesses carried hemp clothes.
More lenient regulations on hemp cultivation and greater public awareness of the advantages of hemp-derived goods have led to a resurgence of hemp. By 2018, there were almost 600% more hectares in Europe being utilized to cultivate industrial hemp than there were in 1993.
With projected total hectares utilized for hemp cultivation of 66,700 (2019), 36,900 (2019), 28,500 (2020), and 17,000 (2020) hectares, respectively, China, Canada, the United States, and France are the top producers of hemp. France and China concentrate on producing hemp fiber. The majority of hemp farmed in the USA and Canada is used medicinally. France is the EU’s leading hemp grower. It cultivated almost 60% of the hemp grown in the EU in 2022, with Germany growing 17% and the Netherlands growing 5%. Poland, Lithuania, Austria, and Italy are other significant EU manufacturers.
Why is the European hemp market interesting?
There are no import or export statistics available for hemp-based materials or clothing. Nonetheless, by examining the following, one might see the potential of the European market for hemp clothing.
Consumer opinions in Europe toward the usage of items produced from hemp and cannabis.
Biggest importer of clothing and textiles worldwide.
World Trade Statistical Review report by the World Trade Organization, the European Union has the top position in the global clothing and textile import market. According to the a data available, the European clothing market expanded by 6.75% on average between 2017 and 2022. The value of the European clothing import market increased from €138 billion in 2017 to €191.4 billion in 2022. This is an increase from 27.8 billion to 32.2 billion articles of clothes.
Products made from hemp and cannabis are becoming less “taboo.”
Legislation in the EU and individual member states is loosening as the advantages of hemp and cannabis-derived goods become more widely acknowledged. The way that consumers see items made from hemp and cannabis is evolving.
Many European nations, including the UK, the Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Malta, the Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Spain and Switzerland, have legalized cannabis usage for medicinal purposes.
The “leading global pathway towards sustainable clothing” is found in Europe.
One of the most intriguing markets for eco-friendly clothing is Europe. Sustainability is a topic that many people are aware of, including governments, non-governmental organizations (NGOs), merchants, brands, and consumers.
As it transitions to a more sustainable economy, the EU views the garment industry as a priority. By 2030, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, as part of the Circular Economy Action Plan, seeks to guarantee that textile goods supplied in the EU are “long-lived and recyclable…, free of hazardous substances and produced in respect of social rights and the environment.
In Europe, consumers’ knowledge of sustainability is also rising. According to a 2020 McKinsey poll of German and British customers, 67% of participants said that using sustainable materials was a crucial consideration when making a purchase.
The usage of sustainable materials in the European fashion industry is growing, and more and more manufacturers are beginning to include hemp fibers into their collections, especially in hemp/organic cotton mixes for denim and T-shirts.
Germany is the European Union’s (EU) biggest clothing market.
Germany is the leading clothing importer in Europe. 55.1% are imports from outside the EU and 44.8% are from inside the EU. Intra-EU imports surged by an average of 7.9% annually. The increasing tendency of purchasing clothing from other European nations, such as Poland and the Netherlands, is highlighted by the greater growth in imports inside the EU. Over the next three years, Statista projects that the German clothing market will expand by 0.85% yearly.
France: A large market with increasing demands for sustainability
As of 2022, France ranked second in Europe for garment imports, with a value of €25.7 billion. 52.3% of this amount came from sources outside the EU, while 47.7% came from inside the EU. 48.6% of France’s imports come from emerging nations, which is a lower percentage than in most other Western European markets. In developing countries, imports increased by 6.45% between 2017 and 2022, whereas intra-EU imports expanded at a lower average annual rate than the overall growth rate of 5%.
Several of the biggest multinational merchants in Europe are based in Spain.
As of 2022, Spain ranked third among European countries in terms of garment imports, with a value of €21.1 billion. Of this, 69.3% came from outside the EU, while 30.7% came from inside the EU. In 2022, the amount of imports from outside the EU increased by almost 5%. Within the same period, imports into the EU increased by about 8.5%. Of the top ten imports, Spain had the worst decline in its market share from emerging nations (-2.1%). Over the next three years, Statista projects that Spain’s garment market will expand by 0.46% yearly.
The Netherlands is a vital center for distribution throughout Europe.
The Netherlands, with a total import value of €19.2 billion in 2022, ranks as the fourth-largest importer of textile items in Europe. Of this, 64.5% originated from outside the EU, while 35.5% were imports inside the EU. Almost 7% growth was expected in the Dutch import market overall between 2017 and 2022. The non-EU market expanded by 6.7% over this period, while the intra-EU market increased by 7.4%. Over the next three years, the Netherlands’ clothing market is predicted to increase by 2.06% yearly. After Poland, this is the second-highest rate among the top six nations.
Italy: A sizable market for cutting-edge goods
Italy will import €18.2 billion worth of clothing in total in 2022, making it the fifth-largest importer of clothing in Europe. Of this, 51.4% were imports from developing nations, 54.7% were from outside the EU, and 45.3% were from inside the EU. Between 2017 and 2022, the percentage of imports into the EU rose by 2.5 percent. Despite being the biggest exporter, China’s market share decreased by 2.7% between 2017 and 2022. Nonetheless, within the same time frame, the market shares of Spain, the Netherlands, and Germany grew to 1.1%, 2.4%, and 1%, respectively.
Poland has Europe’s fastest-growing economy.
Poland, with a total import value of €13.2 billion in 2022, ranks sixth among European countries in terms of garment imports. Of this, imports into the EU accounted for 64.8%, while imports from outside the EU made up 35.2%. Over the next three years, Statista projects that the Polish clothing market will expand by 5.61% yearly.
Which developments in the European hemp clothing sector provide possibilities or risks?
Growing interest in organic cotton throughout the world suggests hemp’s potential.
There is a greater demand than supply for organic cotton. According to a 2021 study of firms that source organic cotton, demand for organic cotton might increase by 84% by 2030 over 2020.
The market share of cotton covered by initiatives approved by the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge, such as Cotton Made in Africa, A new goal set by the organization is to cut the amount of synthetic pesticides used and associated risks by at least 50% for Better Cotton Farmers and their employees.
Hemp has a tremendous lot of promise to increase the successful adoption of organic fibers in the textile industry since it is a mostly pest-resistant crop. Hemp manufacturing methods with monitoring and management of the certified material via the Content Claim Standard (CCS) will be included in the forthcoming Textile Exchange standard system, which consists of the Organic Content Standard and the Content Claim Standard.
China’s cottonized hemp fiber might introduce hemp into European fashion.
Only high-end apparel can produce long hemp fibers to create superior hemp yarn. This is due to the conventional hemp and linen spinning system’s poor productivity and the inability to handle long hemp fibers. Hemp is often cottonized by chemical or mechanical processing. Making sure that this procedure minimizes harm to the environment as well as harm to the useful qualities of hemp fiber—such as its tensile strength and resistance to pilling—is a problem.
Cottonized short fiber hemp may provide textiles with stretch qualities and increased wrinkle resistance, but it can also yield yarn of inferior quality. Global textile pioneers are refining the cottonization process to produce higher-quality hemp fibers and yarns at more affordable costs. China can capitalize on its extensive cotton processing infrastructure and its network of EU buyers to get access to cutting-edge technologies.
China now controls the whole hemp value chain, from cultivation to yarn production. A goal to cultivate hemp on 1.3 million hectares of land for the production of 2 million tons of textile fibers by 2030 was stated in China’s 13th Five-Year Plan in 2016. According to Trademap statistics, the nation accounted for 83% of all hemp yarn exports worldwide in 2022. China’s top export markets for hemp yarn are Cambodia (10%), Korea (13%) and India (20% of all hemp yarn exports worldwide).
China’s established networks for procuring fabrics may be used by developing nation garment manufacturers to establish themselves as industry leaders in the manufacturing and export of hemp clothes to the European Union. One Indian sustainable apparel company with a big assortment of hemp goods is called Reistor. The company is well-known in the European Union market, and it sells hemp items on websites like Poshmark, LYST, and Wolf & Badger.
Europe’s green economy has prospects thanks to regional hemp supply networks.
The EU’s “Green Deal” targets, which include decarbonization, soil erosion, biodiversity, and pesticide usage, may be effectively supported by hemp farming. Hemp is a multifunctional crop that may be used in the food and beverage, textile, cosmetic, pharmaceutical, medicinal, biomaterials, and energy sectors. Because all plant components (roots, flowers, fruit, stems, and leaves) may be utilized, pollution and waste are reduced.
The law in the EU is shifting to support hemp farming locally. More than 500 kinds (as opposed to 75 before) may be cultivated with subsidies as of 2023. The industrial hemp market in Europe is now more competitive as a result.
The comeback of hemp coincides with the EU’s emphasis on reducing waste, promoting circularity, and combating climate change. This offers a chance to “do things right” from the start, which entails giving the creation of sustainable procedures and shorter, more focused supply chains first priority. Another reason is that hemp is heavier and more expensive to transport.
The EU’s hemp production area has grown dramatically in recent years, rising from 20,540 hectares in 2015 to 33,020 hectares in 2022 (a 60% increase). During the same time frame, hemp output rose by 84.3%, from 97,130 tonnes to 179,020 tonnes.
