It might be challenging to determine which path is best to take and which certifications are most beneficial to match your brand credentials since the sustainable fashion business is full of jargon. In particular, there has been a great deal of misunderstanding over the phrases “organic” and “regenerative.” The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the industry-leading standard for textile processing for organic fibers and offers helpful definitions for both words as well as best practices guidelines.
The Organic Way
In general, you may think of organic as the road map that points us in the right direction, while regenerative production and consumption aim to actively replenish the source.
Organic is legally the most sustainable agricultural system, which is a key component to why GOTS is the gold standard for sustainable textiles – it covers organic fibres, clean processing, safe working conditions, and traceability. You know what you are getting when you purchase certified organic products. Buying organic textiles contributes to the sustainability of organic food systems. Crop rotations are required by organic rules, therefore fiber is cultivated alongside organic foods in agricultural practice.
Fibres Organic
Organic is a regulated, certified management system that is designed to ensure that agricultural production and processing protects the health of the environment and society.
Organic regulations focus on prohibiting the use of toxic and harmful chemicals, and promoting management systems that are harmonious with natural forces and based in agroecology (farming processes).
Organic rules are process-oriented, offering a long list of dos and don’ts that eventually shield consumers and the environment from damage.
Organic is a protected term, codified and regulated, whereas regenerative is not protected and is therefore vulnerable to greenwashing.
Organic has a clearly defined set of required practices, as well as permitted non-toxic pesticides and climate friendly fertilisers that have been scientifically demonstrated to increase yields and resilience over time.
Regenerative
The goal of regenerative agriculture is to undo the harm that conventional agriculture has done. Growing regenerative fibers tries to increase soil quality and carbon sequestration capability, but it does not always mean avoiding the use of harmful pesticides and genetically modified organisms (GMOs). Purchasing “regenerative” textiles carries a risk since there are no regulations on the terminology or practices, thus anybody may claim to be regenerative. Since “regenerative” is not a protected word, anybody may use it, opening the door to greenwashing.
Fibres that Regenerate
Regenerative standards often place more emphasis on metrics like soil carbon and do not prohibit GMOs or hazardous chemicals.
While not all regenerative certification programs demand it, some do contain criteria to track and prove progress using soil testing.
Regenerative agriculture emphasizes the significant result of taking CO2 out of the sky and storing it in soils, but if there are no restrictions on the process, harmful chemicals and genetically modified organisms may be utilized against the goals of the industry.
Regenerative practices enable questionable practices with short-term profit motivations to create long-term harm, and they also have a vague set of quantifiable results, most of which are related to carbon capture.