The Growing Influence and Challenges of Nonwoven Materials
Consumers encounter nonwoven materials daily, as they are used in making various everyday items like clothes, facemasks, cosmetic wipes, and reusable bags. The popularity of this material is largely due to its simplicity and versatility. Nonwovens are textiles made from short and long fibers that are mashed together to form a pliable surface. One of the oldest and simplest examples of a nonwoven fabric is felt, but the last fifty years have seen an explosion in different types of this material.
Manufacturing Processes and Physical Advantages
The fibers in nonwovens adhere to each other through one of three primary manufacturing processes: chemical bonding, heat treatment or mechanical pressing. Because their fibers are not held together by intricate woven or knitted patterns, nonwovens possess certain physical advantages that make them ideal for specific applications.
Nonwovens are generally more cost-effective to produce than their knitted or woven counterparts. This is because the manufacturing process does not require any yarn input and does not involve complex weaving processes. The absence of these steps reduces production costs and makes nonwovens an attractive option for various industries.
Another characteristic driving the popularity of nonwovens is their lightness. In packaging, for instance, nonwovens are less voluminous and heavy than woven or knit fabrics, leading to more efficient storage and reduced transportation fuel costs. Their lightweight nature, combined with their protective qualities, makes them an essential material in various sectors.
Applications in Healthcare and Protective Clothing
Nonwovens offer excellent protection against microorganisms, making them a preferred choice for healthcare and medical applications. A study from 2015 demonstrated that using nonwoven fabrics compared to woven fabrics reduced the proportion of packaged operating instruments that needed to be resterilized after storage. As a result, nonwovens have become the default material for protective clothing in healthcare, medicine, and emergency services.
In the past, nonwovens were only used in clothing as a layer of reinforcement inside collar and cuff interlinings. Over time, the fashion applications of nonwovens expanded from rigid internal linings to the outer portions of apparel. Today, nonwovens are used not only to add stiffness and shape retention but also to create the front linings of coats and other outerwear.
Technological Advances and Broader Applications
The trend of using nonwovens in outer layers of clothing has been driven by technological advances, particularly the development of types with superior flexibility. The lightness, flexibility, and insulation provided by modern nonwovens make them ideal components in various clothing applications, particularly sportswear and outdoor performance apparel.
Nonwovens are also widely used in other sectors beyond clothing. They have become essential in industries like construction, filtration, hygiene and medical equipment. The versatility of nonwovens allows them to be tailored to meet the specific needs of different applications, making them a valuable material across multiple industries.
The Impact of the Pandemic on Nonwoven Demand
The COVID-19 pandemic significantly increased demand for nonwoven materials. From 2019 onwards, there was a surge in global demand for sterilized consumer goods, hygiene products, medical personal protective equipment (PPE) and personal care items. Lightweight, cost-effective and disposable, nonwovens are ideally suited for these applications.
Wipes became the largest demand application for the nonwoven industry starting in 2019. There was also a lot of demand for nonwoven PPE, which led some textile companies to use old production lines to make more medical supplies and face masks.
This pandemic rise may have had a long-lasting effect on nonwoven makers. They may now have the skills and resources to meet rising demand from other areas, even as demand for medical products decreases. This shift could lead to further innovations and expansions in the nonwoven industry as it adapts to new market demands.
Sustainability Concerns and Environmental Impact
However, the increased demand for nonwovens during the pandemic also exacerbated and highlighted issues related to waste and environmental pollution. Nonwoven fabrics often have a shorter lifespan than knitted or woven materials, making them more likely to be used in single-use applications such as hygiene products, medical dressings, packaging, and PPE.
The sustainability concerns surrounding nonwovens became more pronounced during the pandemic, as hospitals and other healthcare facilities generated significant amounts of waste in medical textiles. Although disposable equipment in healthcare is essential for preventing infections, there is a growing interest in addressing the mounting problem of waste with biodegradable alternatives.
The Potential for Biodegradable Nonwovens
There is significant potential for a biodegradable nonwoven industry. Nonwovens can be made from a wide variety of fibers, including those from organic feedstocks. Organic feedstocks for nonwoven fibers now range from novel options like chitin—a compound found in the shells of sea creatures—to more traditional materials like cotton. These biodegradable options offer a viable alternative to petrochemical fibers, which dominate the nonwoven market today.
Despite the potential for biodegradable nonwovens, the industry is still largely dominated by cheap and readily available petrochemical plastic fibers. Approximately 66 percent of the material used in nonwovens is synthetic, meaning that most nonwoven items on the market today will not readily or safely break down in the environment.
In clothing applications, nonwovens are typically not single-use. Nonwoven material in clothing is usually integral to the durability of the garment. However, there is a growing movement within the fashion industry to replace petrochemical nonwovens with greener substitutes. This shift reflects a broader trend to replace fossil oil-based materials like polyester, polypropylene, polyamide (nylon), and rayon with more sustainable alternatives.
The Challenge of Renewable Nonwovens
The transition to renewable nonwovens is not without its challenges. In some regions, particularly in response to policy changes like the European Union Single Use Plastic directives, the textiles industry is exploring bio-based and recycled alternatives. Manufacturers that traditionally produced petrochemical nonwoven products are now diversifying into greener ranges.
For example, some producers have expanded their sustainable lines by offering renewable and bio-based nonwovens, including bio-based polyesters that are designed to biodegrade under specific industrial conditions. However, it is important to note that just because nonwoven fibers are plant-based does not necessarily mean they are greener from either a carbon or environmental waste perspective. Many bio-based plastics on the market today degrade under very specific conditions, often only achievable in custom recycling plants.
The Future of Recycled and Compostable Nonwovens
There is room for improving the carbon footprint of synthetic nonwovens. Even when nonwovens are made from petrochemical-based fibers, they can be derived from recycled plastics. This shift towards using recycled materials is already taking place in the nonwoven industry, with some manufacturers leading the way by incorporating recycled polyester waste, such as plastic bottles, into their products.
In Europe, over 30 percent of all polyester fiber used is now from recycled materials, indicating a relatively accessible supply chain for nonwoven manufacturers to make the switch. Additionally, smaller startups are pioneering fully compostable nonwoven materials made from 100 percent plant-based natural fibers, using feedstocks like hemp, jute, and kenaf. These materials offer the promise of a more sustainable future for nonwovens, particularly in applications where biodegradability is a priority.
Partnerships between specialized bio-based startups and larger companies are also emerging in this space, as they work together to develop and commercialize compostable nonwoven materials. These collaborations are helping to drive innovation and expand the market for sustainable nonwovens.
The Road Ahead for Nonwoven Materials
The drive to move away from petrochemicals in fashion and other industries is likely to continue. Combined with increasing demand for sustainable materials in major nonwoven sectors like construction and medical care, the greatest challenge going forward will be reducing the carbon footprint of this ubiquitous material by switching to organic feedstocks.
Established nonwoven manufacturers are showing growing interest in bio-based versions, tracking the rise of bio-based plastics more broadly. The market for bio-based plastics is expected to grow at a significant rate in the coming years, which will likely influence the availability and adoption of renewable nonwovens. However, bio-based nonwovens start from a much smaller market share, meaning there is a long way to go before they can replace fossil-derived materials on a large scale.
The demand for renewable nonwovens will depend on the wider pace of bio-plastics scaling. This will be critical for supplying nonwoven textile makers with cheaper inputs that will enable the production of price-competitive green products. As the industry continues to evolve, it will be essential to balance the benefits of nonwoven materials with the need for sustainability, ensuring that the future of nonwovens is both innovative and environmentally responsible.
